Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Here are some more details to help with crocheting the start of my shawl design Squidge.
See the main post here.
I've made an oversize version of the starting point of the shawl, and blocked it mercilessly :)
You'll see that each ch-sc stitch forms a triangle shape with 2ch on one side, a single thread on the other side and a double thread across the top. (When working a ch-sc into the 1-ch spaces, make sure that you insert the hook to the left of the single thread of the ch-sc in the row below.)
The double line on the sides of each ch-sc represents the 2ch part of the stitch as described above, and appear as you see them.
Note that the stitch count increases by 1 ch-sc every second row.
I hope this helps!
Sunday, August 5, 2012
It features a nice springy reversible stitch, which when combined with a textured yarn produces a highly tactile and warm fabric.
Whichever yarn you choose, make sure that the shawl is worked loosely - use a hook a couple of sizes larger than recommended. This will provide the smooshy, squidgy softness.
Pattern Stitch - chain-single-crochet, or 'ch-sc'. (British = 'ch-dc')
Insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over hook and draw through a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over hook and draw through first loop on hook (2 loops on hook), yarn over hook and draw through 2 loops (1 loop on hook).
If you want to practise this, or if you want to make a rectangular shawl, here are instructions for a straight piece -
Base chain - multiple of 2 +1
Set-up row: 1 ch-sc in 3rd chain from hook, 1ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 ch-sc in next ch, 1ch*, repeat from * to * across row, ending 1 ch-sc in last ch, 2ch, turn.
Pattern row: 1 ch-sc into the first ch-1 space, 1ch, *1 ch-sc in next ch-1 space, 1ch*, repeat from * to *, ending with 1 ch-sc into final turning 2chain, 2ch, turn.
For this shawlette I used 100gm of Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool, with a 4.5mm hook (US size 7).
Size - unblocked and lightly steamed (to retain the squidge) - longest edge is 150cm (60"), the next longest is 135cm(53") and the shortest is 70cm(27")
Chain 6, (ch-sc, 1ch) into 4th chain from hook, skip 1 ch, ch-sc into last ch, 2ch, turn.
Next row: ch-sc into first ch-1 space, 1ch, (ch-sc, 1ch, ch-sc) into turning-3ch, 3ch (loosely), turn.
Row 1: (ch-sc, 1ch) into top of first ch-sc, (ch-sc, 1ch) into first ch-1 space, (ch-sc, 1ch) into each ch-1 space to end, (do not work into the 2ch turn), 2ch, turn
Row 2: ch-sc into first ch-1 space, 1ch, (ch-sc, 1ch) into each ch-1 space to end, end with (ch-sc, 1ch, ch-sc) into turning-2ch, 3ch (loosely), turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the shawl is big enough, or you run out of yarn, or patience (omit final turning chain).
Finishing - the scalloped edging on the final row is -slipstitch to next ch-1 space, *2ch, ch-sc in next ch-1 space, 2ch, slipstitch in next ch-1 space*, repeat from * to * to end.
Weave in ends.
I have added another post here with more details of the start of the shawl, with a diagram :)
Different angles show different patterns
In general, starting at the sharpest point of the shawl, on one edge you will be increasing by one (ch-sc, 1ch) group on every row, and on the other edge decreasing by one ch-sc on every second row. Two steps forward, one step back . . .
This is a rule which can be applied to most knit or crochet patterns to produce this curly odd triangular shape.
If you want the shawl shape to be straighter, longer and less curly, work 4ch instead of 3ch at the turn on the increase edge.
Yarn needed for one row is about 9.5 to 10 times the width of the row.
Yarn samples: left - Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool: centre - fine linen slub yarn 4mm hook: right - Madelinetosh DK 6mm hook
That's it - my first pattern! Any comments or corrections are welcome :)
You may not reproduce or circulate this pattern. You may sell items you make from it, with due reference to this blogpost.